Italy 2025 – Ep 1

Bugger It, Let’s Ride – An Alpine Escape to Italy on Two Wheels

Day 1 – 10.07.25: From Aying to Tirolo – And Just Like That, We’re Off!

You know how it goes – one minute you’re sipping your morning coffee, checking the forecast, thinking you might finally mow the lawn… and next thing you know, you’re strapping your gear onto the bike and heading south towards Italy. Welcome to our spontaneous two-wheeled escape!

It all kicked off at 07:00, coffee in hand, watching the weather like grumpy old men at a Bunnings sausage sizzle. The forecast looked like a soggy mess for the next few days – classic. So, with the decision-making skills of a bloke choosing a pub on a Friday arvo, we said, “Stuff it, let’s ride.”

By 09:30, we had the house locked, bags bunged onto the bike, and wheels rolling. The plan was simple-ish: head for Emilia Romagna, ride that mountainous strip between Genova and San Marino, throw in a few side missions, maybe pop down to Umbria, and then zigzag back home via Cortina d’Ampezzo, the Gloßglockner Hochalpenstraße (good luck spelling that with gloves on), and the legendary Rossfeld. All up, about 2,200 km – not counting any spontaneous detours or “ooh that road looks fun” moments.

Instead of copping the usual autobahn crowd and hammering over Brenner or Fernpass like every man and his schnitzel-loving dog, we went full rogue. Took backroads that were smoother than a fresh jar of Vegemite and emptier than a pub toilet on karaoke night. Barely any traffic, cracking conditions, and views so good they nearly knocked our sunnies off.

Weather-wise, it was a bit of a mixed bag – started cool around 8°C, climbed to a balmy 27°C as we hit the valleys, and not a drop of rain. Just blue skies, the odd fluffy cloud, and a bike that was loving every second of it. The Alps had copped a dusting of snow just a few days ago, but lucky for us, roads were drier than a politician’s apology.

After smashing through 316 km of Alpine bliss, we rolled into Meran with grins plastered across our dusty faces. Found ourselves a ripper spot to crash – Haselgrund in Tirolo. Underground parking (tick), epic views (tick), brekkie included (tick), and all for a tidy 270 euros for two nights. Fair go, that’s a steal these days.

To top it all off, we parked the bikes, had a cold drink, and took in that sweet mountain air. A perfect start to the trip. Tomorrow, the boots come off, the legs come out, and we go full tourist mode in Tirolo. Time for some culture – or at least a scenic wander and maybe a cheeky pastry.

Day 2 – 11.07.25: Exploring Dorf Tirol – Castles, Kaiserschmarrn and Key Troubles

If you’ve never heard of Dorf Tirol (a.k.a. Tirolo), let me paint you a picture: imagine a charming little village perched just above Meran, with views so pretty they make you wanna write poetry or at least stop swearing for five minutes.

We kicked off the day with a classic Alpine breakfast – plenty of cheese, strong coffee, and bread rolls that could dent a helmet. With full bellies and slightly tight pants, we set off on foot to explore the village.

Our mission: Castle Tirol. The big cheese. The OG fortress. And oh boy, it didn’t disappoint. Perched majestically above the village, this medieval beast dates back to the 1100s and was once the seat of the Counts of Tirol. Yep, this whole region actually gets its name from the joint. You could say it’s kind of a big deal.

The castle itself is a cracker. We forked over 20 EUR each and wandered through the museum inside – full of old relics, artefacts, and enough historical drama to make Game of Thrones look like Neighbours. There’s also a chapel with some medieval frescoes that’ve survived more wars and weather than your average backyard shed.

The views from up there are next level. You get a full panoramic of Meran sprawled out below, with apple orchards, vineyards, and the Alps looming like an overprotective parent. It’s one of those places where you just stand there for a moment and think, “Yeah, this was a good decision.”

After soaking up about three hours of history, it was time to refuel – not with petrol, but with Kaiserschmarrn. For the uninitiated, this is basically pancake pieces on steroids – shredded, caramelised, and dusted with enough icing sugar to make your dentist cry. It’s a local speciality and, frankly, worth riding all the way from Aying for.

The afternoon was a cruisy one. Sorted out a battery issue with the GS key – because what’s a motorbike trip without at least one minor tech drama? Fixed it with the kind of bush mechanic skills that’d make your uncle proud. Then it was feet up, fresh mountain air, and a cheeky snooze before the next day’s mission.

Tirolo may be a sleepy village now, but back in the day it was the medieval power centre of South Tyrol. The castle was the main residence of the Counts of Tyrol from the 12th to 15th centuries, and this little spot on the map helped shape the whole region’s identity. Even now, it’s got that air of old-world importance – like it knows it used to run the show, but is happy to let tourists wander through now as long as they behave themselves.

All in all, it was a cracker of a rest day. Bit of history, great food, some minor key drama, and legs that definitely earned a good night’s kip. Tomorrow: back in the saddle and heading south again.

Day 3 – 12.07.25: Tirolo to Rezzato – Tiny Roads, Tight Turns, and Twisty Bliss

After another solid feed and a yarn with our host (who, by the way, could talk the leg off a chair), we hit the road at 09:30. Which, as we quickly discovered, was about two hours too late for escaping Meran traffic. Everyone and their nonna seemed to be out, and let’s just say filtering a big GS through that chaos was a test of patience and clutch control.

Once we escaped the urban jungle and got past Lana, things started to look up. And by “look up,” I mean roads that twisted and turned like a bowl of spaghetti thrown at a wall. We’d deliberately skipped the big-name passes again – no Stelvio traffic jams or Reschenpass caravans for us. Instead, it was all about those tiny goat tracks that don’t even show up properly on Google Maps. The kind of roads that make you say “oooh yeah” followed immediately by “hope nothing’s coming the other way.”

What a ride. Nearly 7 hours in the saddle, knocking out 280 km of mostly second-gear joy. We climbed up to 1,700 metres on roads so narrow you’d be lucky to squeeze two cyclists past each other. If you’re in a car and meet oncoming traffic – mate, you’re reversing, sweating, and probably swearing.

But on a bike? It’s heaven. Tight hairpins, empty roads, lush scenery that looks like a screensaver come to life. It was technical riding – not fast, but focused. No time to relax, but plenty of time to grin like a lunatic every time we rounded a corner and were greeted by another postcard-worthy view.

By the time we rolled into Rezzato, we were cooked – physically, not emotionally. Arms sore, heads buzzing, and one very happy motorcycle sitting quietly after a hard day’s work. We didn’t do much else that night – just a feed, some hydration (read: beer), and the satisfaction that only comes from knowing you spent the day dodging potholes and loving every minute of it.

And So the Adventure Rolls On…

Three days in, and this spontaneous motorbike trip is already ticking every box. Epic roads, wild scenery, surprise castle history lessons, pancakes for lunch, and enough twisties to make your neck hurt just thinking about it.

Sure, we’ve still got another thousand kays to go, probably more dodgy batteries, and maybe even a dodgy stomach from too much Kaiserschmarrn – but that’s all part of the fun. The open road doesn’t wait for perfect plans, just perfect timing – and when the timing is “now”, that’s when the magic happens.

Stay tuned, legends. Emilia Romagna is calling, and the mountain roads won’t ride themselves!

#dustysocks