Italy 2025 – Ep 7

From Shaky Villages to Fortress Peaks: Three Days of Mountains, Thunderstorms, and Too Much Nutella

Dates covered: 28.07.25 to 30.07.25

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Day 19 – 28.07.25

Twisties, Tarmac, and Timely Thunderstorms: L’Aquila to Fiastra

You know those riding days that make you grin like a kid in a lolly shop? Yeah, today was one of those. We smashed an early brekkie, dodged the morning traffic like pros, and then it was just us, the open road, and a perfect 20°C breeze.

We kicked things off with SP 86 through the mountains—empty roads, smooth tarmac, and scenery so good I half expected David Attenborough to start narrating. Then came Lago di Campotosto, a sparkling lake lined with camper vans and mobile homes, their owners clearly onto something. Looked like a proper summer escape spot, although I’m not convinced their view beats ours from the saddle.

Next up: SP 477—an absolute stunner. The sort of road that makes you wish you could sack off the rest of the day and just ride it back and forth until sunset. Sweeping curves, long stretches through forests, and mountain views that slap you right in the soul.

But it wasn’t all sunshine and wheelies. This whole region was smashed by the same 2009 earthquake that wrecked L’Aquila. We passed through village after village still wearing scars—collapsed walls, empty shells of houses, and more scaffolding than you’d see at an AC/DC concert stage setup. Sixteen years later, they’re still rebuilding. Puts our little complaints about potholes into perspective.

By about 2 PM, we realised our luck was running out—big, ugly thunderclouds were chasing us. We found a cosy agriturismo just before the skies opened, checked into a rustic little room, and watched the rain smash down while tucking into a long, lazy lunch. Sometimes you win the weather lottery.

The rest of the evening was blissfully uneventful—good food, dry socks, and that smug feeling you get when you dodge a soaking by minutes.

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Day 20 – 29.07.25

Nutella Near-Death Experience: Fiastra to San Marino

If yesterday was a rider’s dream, today was… well, let’s just say the weather gods had a laugh at our expense.

We woke to heavy rain—like, biblical heavy. And of course, it was right on top of us, while the rest of Italy probably sipped cappuccinos under sunny skies. Breakfast was typical Italian—croissants, cakes, and enough sugar to send a toddler into orbit. I grabbed what I thought was a plain croissant, took a big bite, and almost keeled over from the Nutella overload. I swear it was 70% hazelnut sugar cement. Might as well have licked a jar.

We rolled out at 9 AM in light rain. A few kilometres later—dry. Then heavy rain. Then dry again. Repeat. For 170 of the 220 kilometres. It was like the weather was playing whack-a-mole with us. And between the foggy mountain views (or lack thereof), wet slippery roads, and surprise patches of mud and stones, the riding was exhausting.

We stuck to B and C roads, which meant plenty of tight curves and elevation changes, but also a workout for every muscle from the waist down. It was almost as tiring as an off-road day—minus the fun of pretending you’re Toby Price in Dakar.

By the time we rolled into San Marino at 3 PM, I was toast. Thankfully, the Titano Hotel came to the rescue—safe bike parking and a comfy room smack in the old town. Two nights booked, no question.

After a nap, we headed out for dinner. San Marino’s streets are jammed with restaurants, souvenir stalls, and—oddly—more weapon and perfume shops than I’ve ever seen. Makes you wonder what kind of night out they’re planning here.

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Day 21 – 30.07.25

Fortresses Before Breakfast: A Day in San Marino

Yesterday afternoon the old town was jam-packed with tourists, so we hatched a cunning plan—beat the crowds. That meant a 5 AM wake-up call, a quick cuppa in the room, and boots on the cobblestones by 6.

And it worked. The medieval old town was ours. Just us, a few locals heading to work, and the occasional cat slinking across the street.

San Marino’s not massive, but it is vertical.

Built on a hilltop, it’s all steep lanes, staircases, and sudden leg workouts you didn’t sign up for. We made it to Towers 1, 2, and 3, wandered every back alley worth wandering, and ticked off all the major sights before most visitors even finished breakfast.

A quick history detour for the uninitiated: San Marino is the world’s oldest republic, claiming independence since the year 301. Yup, while the rest of Europe was busy stabbing each other with swords, these blokes were already writing laws and minding their own business. It’s one of the smallest countries in the world—only about 61 square kilometres—but it’s stubbornly stayed independent for over 1,700 years.

After our dawn adventure, we treated ourselves to breakfast (mercifully low on Nutella this time) and then crashed back into bed for a well-earned nap. The afternoon was for ice cream, lazy strolls, and dinner with a view.

Tomorrow, we’re pointing the bikes back towards the mountains—because apparently, we can’t end a trip without adding just a bit more riding. Like always.

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Wrap-Up So Far:

The last three days have thrown just about everything at us—picture-perfect mountain twisties, history still written in cracked walls, storms timed to the minute, and sugar bombs disguised as breakfast pastries.

We’ve ridden through the heart of earthquake country, dodged rain like a bad rom-com plot, and stood on fortress walls looking out over half of Italy. And the best part? The road ahead’s still winding through mountains.

If this trip’s taught me anything, it’s that perfect riding days are made even better when you’ve earned them—whether by outrunning a thunderstorm, wrestling with a greasy mountain road, or dragging yourself up a fortress tower before sunrise.

Catch you next from the high roads—hopefully with less Nutella and fewer rainclouds. 🏍️☀️⛰️

#dustysocks