20.03.2025 – Day 3
Riding Through History: Udon Thani to Rong Kham and the Secrets of Ramasun Station
Some journeys are about the ride, while others offer glimpses into forgotten history. My latest trip from Udon Thani to Rong Kham had a bit of both. While the ride itself was smooth and enjoyable, the real highlight of the day was visiting Ramasun Station, a Cold War-era intelligence post with a mysterious past.
A Morning Start With the Rooster’s Call
The day started much earlier than planned, thanks to the neighbor’s overly enthusiastic rooster. It wasn’t the first time I’d been woken up like this on a trip, but at least the early wake-up meant a fresh and cool morning ride.
After shaking off the last traces of sleep, I geared up and headed out. First stop: a gas station with a coffee shop—because no good ride begins on an empty stomach. With a hot coffee in hand, I checked my route and made sure I was ready for the main event of the morning: visiting Ramasun Station Historical Museum.
Ramasun Station: A Window Into Cold War Espionage
At 9:30 AM, I pulled up to the entrance of the Ramasun Station Historical Museum, only to find the gate firmly closed. Not the best start. But instead of turning back, I rode over to the 3rd Infantry Division nearby. A friendly soldier at the gate let me in and pointed me in the right direction, saving the visit from being a total bust.
So, what exactly was Ramasun Station?
Back in the days of the Cold War, it was one of 12 similar stations worldwide, operated by the U.S. Army Security Agency (ASA). These stations formed a global network for electronic surveillance and intelligence gathering, listening in on enemy communications, monitoring military movements, and decoding secret messages. The station in Udon Thani, in particular, was a key location for keeping an ear on Vietnam, China, and the Soviet Union.
Originally established in the 1960s, Ramasun Station was home to massive AN/FLR-9 antenna arrays—also known as “Elephant Cages.” These structures could intercept and analyze radio signals from thousands of miles away. For nearly two decades, the station played a crucial role in U.S. military operations in Southeast Asia, particularly during the Vietnam War.
However, as technology advanced and diplomatic relations shifted, the need for such stations declined. By the late 1970s, Ramasun Station was handed over to the Royal Thai Army, marking the end of its American intelligence operations. Today, parts of the base have been converted into a historical museum, preserving what’s left of its secretive past.
Cold War Listening Posts Around the World
Ramasun wasn’t alone. Similar stations existed in Japan, Germany, the Philippines, Turkey, and other strategic locations. These sites were essential during the Cold War, providing the U.S. and its allies with intelligence on Soviet movements and communist activities worldwide. Some of the most well-known listening posts included:
• Misawa Air Base, Japan – One of the largest intelligence stations in Asia, monitoring North Korea, China, and Russia.
• Clark Air Base, Philippines – Played a critical role in tracking enemy communications in Southeast Asia.
• Chicksands, UK – A major hub for intercepting Soviet communications in Europe.
• Augsburg, Germany – Focused on signals intelligence (SIGINT) from Eastern Europe during the height of the Cold War.
These stations used similar AN/FLR-9 “Elephant Cage” antennas, allowing them to intercept high-frequency radio signals across vast distances. Over time, as satellite technology and digital surveillance improved, these sites became obsolete, and many were shut down or repurposed.
Back on the Road: From History to the Highway
After spending about an hour exploring, it was time to move on. I fired up the CRF and hit the road, ready for the next stretch of the journey.
Today’s ride was mostly on tarmac, with only a few off-road sections. The back roads were smooth, making it easy to cruise at a relaxed 80-90 km/h. The CRF handled beautifully, comfortable and steady even on the occasional rough patches.
The off-road parts I did encounter were mostly unpaved farm roads, cutting through quiet countryside and small villages. It wasn’t the most technical ride, but it was nice to break up the highway sections with some dirt under the tires.
A Well-Deserved Rest in Rong Kham
After five hours and 235 km, I finally rolled into Rong Kham, Kalasin. For a small town, it had everything a tired traveler could ask for:
• A choice of accommodations for the night
• Several restaurants for a proper meal
• A 7/11, Lotus, and CJ Market for supplies
• And, of course, a gas station to refuel for the next leg of the journey
It wasn’t the most challenging day of riding, but it was a memorable one. Learning about Ramasun Station and its role in Cold War history added a new layer of depth to the trip—reminding me that sometimes, the best part of riding isn’t just the roads but the stories they lead to.
Now, time to get some rest before tomorrow’s adventure. Who knows what history the next ride will uncover?
Stay tuned and enjoy yourself!!
#dustysocks
